Its saturday night, last jobs and shopping have been done...yet we are running out of time...We put up some photo's in the link on the right hand side, but were unable to put them all up...So there will be more to come...Once we get to the other side that is, cause no internet at sea!
Sunday 27 September 2009
Galapagos
The Galapagos
After 13 days at sea, we finally arrived on the of island of San Cristobal...It was one those arrivals that I love, as the sun rises, on the horizon, land slowly appears...One by one we wake up, knowing that when we pop our head outside, land will be there to greet us...
Good Morning the Galapagos....
The first glimpse of them, was not what I quite expected.
Arid, dry land...Mountain top in the misty clouds, and rugged coast line with the south Pacific breaking its long lived swell, eating away the volcanic rocks...
Margot, was already there, they got there 3 days before us...10am SSB radio transmission, we tell them that we are not far, just behind the south point...Roger had already found a cheaper agent to do our entry papers, and they were all waiting, eagerly...
Entry Papers in this part of the world are not an easy task, well they can be if you have NO problem with just giving your money...This place lives on tourism, and they know how valuable their island’s are in the eyes of the world, how Unique every one sees them, so the bill can be high...
National Park Fee: us$100 per person
Agent Fee: 150
Lighthouse fee's : 48
Harbour Fee: 76
Immigration: 15
Fumigation : 80
Exit fee: 25.....
After a lot of hard negotiation got our bill reduced as much as possible. Plus we played the poor one that did would not see the national park, too bad for us, but at least we save money...At the end, we have been able to see it all!
San Cristobal is the second largest Island of the Galapagos, with a population of 8000, it still seems very quite and laid back. The Main town Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is actually the administrative centre of the Islands. A little town, that getting around by foot is quite easy…The seals here are everywhere!
In the sun on the docks, on the little local beach front, and even in town…They are the street bums! They even jump up the back of the boats, not shy to make more territory of their own!
We spend 7 days on the Island of San Cristobal.
Margot has a generator problem and we are trying to get the auto pilot fixed...
Doing laundry, getting the boat back in order but enjoying the sea lions company.
A day in the high lands, exploring the Island.
The Jungo Lagoon, the only fresh water lake, at 700m above sea level, where Frigate birds come to bath.
A tortoise sanctuary, Where they live in a semi-natural environment. A great way to see them. They also hatch them, so there were many baby ones…Amazing to see them so small and think of how big they can get…and old!
180 years!
As well as stunning views of the Island.
Most of the Islands have 3 climate’s: Dry, Tropical and Humid.
The coast line is dry, almost dessert like with cactus, dry scrubs and rocks.
Then at about 200m, its gets green, tropical. Where Oranges and Guavas are almost a weed…They also have their very own coffee!
And the High lands, what they call the Humid, are lost in the mountain tops, where clouds linger all the time.
A lazy Sunday at Las Loberia beach, with more sea lions! A very territorial male as well as jealous and protective of his wife’s…Cause sea lions have more than one female!
I was surprised to see the females breast feeding.
We slosly started to realise that we could not get our things fixed, so we had to ark permission to the Port Captain to go to the next main Island; Santa Cruz.
Sailing boats like us, are not allowed to cruise in the Galapagos, they are so afraid that we might see something, and not go on one of the many cruises!
But as we had things broken, that could not be fixed where we were, we were given the permission to go.
8hrs sailing, Passing by the Island of Santa Fe, and we arrived at the Island of Santa Cruz.
The bay is not at all protected. But there are many boats, we had thought that San Cristobal was busy, well this place is so much more!
Cruise boats, constantly come and go. Tourist’s by the mass…On and off, cargo ships unloading goods the hard way, hand labour.
A cruise here, for 3 Days costs $350. That’s to be with 20 other people.
We have been very lucky to be able to see yet another of the Galapagos Islands…And this time Puerto Ayora, the “city”…On this island live an estimated 18 000 to 20 000 people. This is the Capital of the Galapagos.
Here we have been able to fix most things, yet unfortunately not the auto pilot!
We will have to continue holding the healm for the next haul!
I am now 24weeks pregnant, 6 months…Despite a very little weight gain (for me that is), baby is doing well.
22 cm long and kicking lots! Even getting its very own music.
Being on the boat with a belly that is getting bigger, is not getting any easier, but everyone helps as they can. We even had to come and sleep on “Margot” while here, as the anchorage can be very roly! Cause sleeping on one’s side when it rolls is no fun I can assure you that!
Apart from that I am doing well!
More fruit and vegetables, we are now ready to go on for the next step of the trip!
The marquises. 3000 nautical miles, that can take up to 25 days. Once again depending on the wind!
After 13 days at sea, we finally arrived on the of island of San Cristobal...It was one those arrivals that I love, as the sun rises, on the horizon, land slowly appears...One by one we wake up, knowing that when we pop our head outside, land will be there to greet us...
Good Morning the Galapagos....
The first glimpse of them, was not what I quite expected.
Arid, dry land...Mountain top in the misty clouds, and rugged coast line with the south Pacific breaking its long lived swell, eating away the volcanic rocks...
Margot, was already there, they got there 3 days before us...10am SSB radio transmission, we tell them that we are not far, just behind the south point...Roger had already found a cheaper agent to do our entry papers, and they were all waiting, eagerly...
Entry Papers in this part of the world are not an easy task, well they can be if you have NO problem with just giving your money...This place lives on tourism, and they know how valuable their island’s are in the eyes of the world, how Unique every one sees them, so the bill can be high...
National Park Fee: us$100 per person
Agent Fee: 150
Lighthouse fee's : 48
Harbour Fee: 76
Immigration: 15
Fumigation : 80
Exit fee: 25.....
After a lot of hard negotiation got our bill reduced as much as possible. Plus we played the poor one that did would not see the national park, too bad for us, but at least we save money...At the end, we have been able to see it all!
San Cristobal is the second largest Island of the Galapagos, with a population of 8000, it still seems very quite and laid back. The Main town Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is actually the administrative centre of the Islands. A little town, that getting around by foot is quite easy…The seals here are everywhere!
In the sun on the docks, on the little local beach front, and even in town…They are the street bums! They even jump up the back of the boats, not shy to make more territory of their own!
We spend 7 days on the Island of San Cristobal.
Margot has a generator problem and we are trying to get the auto pilot fixed...
Doing laundry, getting the boat back in order but enjoying the sea lions company.
A day in the high lands, exploring the Island.
The Jungo Lagoon, the only fresh water lake, at 700m above sea level, where Frigate birds come to bath.
A tortoise sanctuary, Where they live in a semi-natural environment. A great way to see them. They also hatch them, so there were many baby ones…Amazing to see them so small and think of how big they can get…and old!
180 years!
As well as stunning views of the Island.
Most of the Islands have 3 climate’s: Dry, Tropical and Humid.
The coast line is dry, almost dessert like with cactus, dry scrubs and rocks.
Then at about 200m, its gets green, tropical. Where Oranges and Guavas are almost a weed…They also have their very own coffee!
And the High lands, what they call the Humid, are lost in the mountain tops, where clouds linger all the time.
A lazy Sunday at Las Loberia beach, with more sea lions! A very territorial male as well as jealous and protective of his wife’s…Cause sea lions have more than one female!
I was surprised to see the females breast feeding.
We slosly started to realise that we could not get our things fixed, so we had to ark permission to the Port Captain to go to the next main Island; Santa Cruz.
Sailing boats like us, are not allowed to cruise in the Galapagos, they are so afraid that we might see something, and not go on one of the many cruises!
But as we had things broken, that could not be fixed where we were, we were given the permission to go.
8hrs sailing, Passing by the Island of Santa Fe, and we arrived at the Island of Santa Cruz.
The bay is not at all protected. But there are many boats, we had thought that San Cristobal was busy, well this place is so much more!
Cruise boats, constantly come and go. Tourist’s by the mass…On and off, cargo ships unloading goods the hard way, hand labour.
A cruise here, for 3 Days costs $350. That’s to be with 20 other people.
We have been very lucky to be able to see yet another of the Galapagos Islands…And this time Puerto Ayora, the “city”…On this island live an estimated 18 000 to 20 000 people. This is the Capital of the Galapagos.
Here we have been able to fix most things, yet unfortunately not the auto pilot!
We will have to continue holding the healm for the next haul!
I am now 24weeks pregnant, 6 months…Despite a very little weight gain (for me that is), baby is doing well.
22 cm long and kicking lots! Even getting its very own music.
Being on the boat with a belly that is getting bigger, is not getting any easier, but everyone helps as they can. We even had to come and sleep on “Margot” while here, as the anchorage can be very roly! Cause sleeping on one’s side when it rolls is no fun I can assure you that!
Apart from that I am doing well!
More fruit and vegetables, we are now ready to go on for the next step of the trip!
The marquises. 3000 nautical miles, that can take up to 25 days. Once again depending on the wind!
Thursday 17 September 2009
Panama to Galapagos
It seems like such a long time ago since I last wrote, and so so much has happened. We have ended up spending quite some time in Panama prepareing the boats for the crossing. We have two boats but only one zodiac with a motor and one car between us all...everything takes so much longer to happen when waiting for others, and the one car makes it a logistical nightmare to get a seamingly simple job done.
Panama has been a bag of mixed fortunes. On one had we got the opportunity to do a Panama Canal crossing with a couple who needed crew, and what an amazing experience it was, but on the other hand I had my bag stolen out of the car with computer and camera....and to top it all off, the news that my stepfathers fight with cancer had sadly ended......RIP.
The message the
re is that life is too short, and we have a trip ahead of us that many only dream about.... Well having said that, there is nothing new about all this for Sarah. She grew up sailing across oceans and our destinations are ones that she has visited before. The excitement for her is the fact that she is reunited with her father and 16yo little brother who she hadn't seen for 4 years, and, that she is showing and sharing with me her life experiences of crossings and passages on the HOPEFULLY not to high seas.
One last thing to do before we leave...a trip into the suburbs of Panama City for a dinner that sarahs childhood friends had prepared for us. As it turns ou
t it was a trip down memory lane for Sarah and Roger as there were some faces there that they did not expect to see and had not seen for 16years. Adith wipped up an absalutely delicious meal and Jesus(no not that jesus) had some tricks of his own...not with food but with balloons(this jesus was a clown….Hmmm). It was a great way to say goodbye to Panama. Spirits are up, we set sail tomorrow....
Sarah is now 19 weeks and 1 days pregnant. The baby measures 170mm….all is well.
So here we go…. is this going to be a trip of a life time or is the boats bucket and me going to become best friends. I have sailed a number of times before but with varying degrees of success so far as holding onto my stomach is concerned. This is a big trip we are embarking on, and one would be a fool to think that we would not be encountering rough weather from time to time….If it is possible to cross them than I have them crossed..fingers, toes, legs, arms. Everything but the eyes…that wou
ld be ridiculous!
16th of August - 07:30 hours
Position : 8°55’ W - 79°31’ N
Anchor is lifted and finally "Our Pacific Adventure" begins
Our final destination is hopefully The Cook Islands, but we are behind schedule already.
We’ll have to wait and see how much the wind blows in our favour.
First destination is Las Perlas islands
Las Perlas is an archipeligo off the coast of Panama.
Our first port of call is Contadora island.
Position : 8°37’ N – 79°02’ S
It is one of the first of the islands and it is 38 nautical miles from Panama City.
It was a very relaxing start to the journey. The weather was nice and Jo Jo caught a nice fish for dinner
We reached Contador
a in around 8hours arriving with a dolfin escort at about 15:30
The waters here are crystal clear so of course we celebrated our arrival with a swim.
There seems to be plenty of sea life here, we have seen whales but also Jo Jo passed over a whale shark whilst returning from Margot in the tender. He was only about 10m from our boat at the time.
We spent about a week sailing through the very picturesque Islands, stopping at Isla Bayoneta, Isla Pedro Gonzales with it’s small islolated fishing village within a beautiful lagoon that JoJo made the most of by dusting off his windsurfer skills. I also had a crack at it…..I persisted for 2 hours…the blisters have now heeled. Our final stop was Isla San Jose which was a very large private nature reserve island. It was home to one very fancy hotel/resort, the kind getaway for the very rich with it’s most basic rooms at $365/night…no meals or activities included. The only other inhabitant of the island was a recently widowed 75yo german lady who was shipwrecked there with her partner some 25 years earlier…well before there was any hotel there. She now lives there alone in her humpy like dwelling with her alsation , chickens and 30 goats…..her children have never visited. Makes you wonder if they even know she is alive.
24th of August we lifted anchor and set sail for Isla Iguana…this will be our first overnight sail putting our system of 4hour watches each to the test.
Isla Iguana is a small solitary uninhabited island. We hope to be able to collect some Bannana’s here before the real long distance sailing begins.
Position : 7°37’ N – 80°00’ W
It’s a pretty little island that is now reserve. Again there seems to be plenty of marine life and our anchorage is right alongside a coral reef which was great for snorkling.
We stayed here for 2 days….now the real sailing begins!!
The plan from here is to go to Cocos Island which is where Jurasic Park was filmed, and then on to the Galapagos.
So here we go off into the wild blue yonder…Jo Jo , Sarah and I…4 hour shifts, 24 hours a day for who knows how many days. Maybe 10 or maybe more..it all depends on which way the wind blows and of course how hard too…Ohhh yeah did I mention before? We have no auto pilot!!! We are actually physically sailing this thing with our bare hands….and no I have never done that before..
Our first 2 days has mostly been motoring…Barely any wind. The motor has to be rested every 10 to 12 hours for 4hours. If there is no wind, we drift ….hopefully in the right direction.
Some cloud and wind is now building up. It moves in fast and before you know it, it’s 30 to 35 knots. The boat is now moving and the waves seem to be coming from all directions and so is everything else that isn’t bolted down….the organised kaos that I had become accustomed to now has become…unorga
nised.
The 2 golden rules of sailing in this weather is –
1. One hand for yourself (Hang onto yourself) and
2. One hand for the boat (hang onto something else)
The storm lasted for 2 hours and each hour after that saw the seas calm.
The weather has not been in our favour. We are not going to get to Cocos. The new course is straight for Galapagos…The wind is on the nose so it is tacking with the wind shifts and due to the cold currents from the south the closer to the equator we get the colder it also gets. I am now wearing long johns and a wet weather jacket to keep warm.
On the evening of the 7th of Sept during my 8pm to midnight shi
ft, although I didn’t see it, we crossed the equator….So the following day we had some dress up celebrations. The theme of course was something maritime. Jo Jo got creative with his dive and windsurfing kit, Sarah called herself the shipwreck with her assortments of ropes, netting and an unfinished model boat that she managed strap to her head and me, well I figured I’d pay tribute to my sea legs(non existent sealegs that is) by strapping fenders for below deck protection and goggles and lifebouy for the quite likely manoverboard scenario….But wait there is more. There was also a challenge for each of us. Jo Jo was to dance to the Barbie song every time we put it on , Sarah we decided also had to wear flippers all day and I was served a delicious porrige for breakfast…..cooked in sea water of course…Mmmm Yummmm!
Fun was had by all.
We have Galapagos in our sites......land ho!!
The crossing from Isla Iguana to The Galapagos ends up taking 13days
We are very glad to have no more watches for a while.....
Don't forget you can see many many more great photo's by following the link at the top right of the page.
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